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Pond and Water Garden Installation and Maintenance Guide
This guide is designed as an introduction to Pond and Water Garden installation and maintenance.
Follow these simple steps and concepts, and you will enjoy many years simple and beautiful pond
ownership.
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Location
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Location can play a key role in the long term success of your pond, so it deserves a little extra
consideration before you make any plans. Make sure you keep maintenance in mind when choosing your
location. A pond that is easy to maintain will ensure that keeping up the pond is not a burden, and
leaves more time to enjoy your pond.
Things to consider when choosing a location:
Local Laws: Check on your local zoning, HOA or other regulations that may affect you. Make
sure you comply with any restrictions on what or where you can build, or if you need a fence? For
Lancaster, Chester and Berks County, here is a municipality directory: http://www.township-directory.com
Here is one for York County; http://yorkcountypa.gov/about-york-county/boroughs-
townships.html
Utilities: Don’t just blindly start digging up your yard, know where your utility lines are
located. Cable TV, Gas, electric or others can be buried where you least expect them. Make the call
and get your utilities marked. The service is usually free, and worth being sure about. In
Pennsylvania use the PA 1 call service to have all your utilities marked by the suppliers. Dial 8-
1-1 or 1-800-242-1776, you can also visit http://www.pa1call.org for more information.
View: You are building a pond to enjoy it, make sure that you choose a location where you
can easily see the best features of your pond. Next to a patio or deck, near an entranceway, out
the kitchen window, or near other places where you spend a lot of time, will increase your
enjoyment.
Trees: Avoid placing your pond directly underneath large trees. Falling leaves and branches
can rapidly clog and damage your filtration or puncture your liner. Sap and decaying leaves from
certain trees can make a real mess, and affect water quality. Try to benefit from the shade of a
nearby tree - just don’t place your pond underneath one if possible. If Trees are unavoidable, use
of a leaf net and extra maintenance time will be needed.
Electric: Your pond is going to need power, so you will need to have a plan to use an
existing electrical source, or budget for a new electrical line to be installed. New electrical
service can be expensive, but is also the best choice. A dedicated electrical service with GFCI
protection is safe, and is required by code in wet locations. If you are using an existing
electrical outlet, make sure you know what else (if anything) is running on the circuit, and be sure
that you are not overloading the outlet or circuit. If the existing outlet is not GFCI, you should
look into installing one, or having a GFCI breaker installed to protect the circuit for
safety.
Drainage: Take note of the water drainage on your property; avoid locating your pond in an
area that is likely to fill with runoff during heavy rain. Your pond design should include an
elevated perimeter so that potentially hazardous runoff cannot get in your pond, you may also need
to consider using berms, or gulleys to divert rain water from your pond. Drainage from the pond
itself needs to be taken into consideration also: where is the water going to go if the pond
overflows? Don’t wait until the afternoon you left the hose running to find out. Include an
overflow plan in your pond and landscape design.
Direct Sunlight: The ideal location will have a good mix of sun and shade. Too much
sunlight can help promote algae growth and high temperatures. Too little light will limit what kind
of live plants you can keep, and how well you can see your fish. A good thing to look at here is
the light requirements of any particular plants that you would like to keep. If you are dead set on
a plant, make sure it will have a good spot in your design. Most plants are going to require 6 – 8
hours of direct sunlight per day to thrive. Study the shadows in your yard, and how they change
throughout the day. If you have no shade, you will have to use surface covering plants or an
Ultraviolet Sterilizer/Clarifier system to keep your water clear.
Fish or No Fish: Pond size and depth are going to be your determining factors here, along
with your local winter weather. In Northern climates where freezing is an issue, a 24-36” pond
depth is going to be required to insure that fish can live outside all winter. Goldfish, which only
reach 12" in length, can be kept in smaller ponds under 1000 gallons. Larger ponds 1000 gallons or
more are required for keeping Koi, which can reach lengths of 36” or more as adults. Koi require
more open space for swimming, and can also be destructive to pond plants if allowed.
Pond Plants: There is a huge variety of pond plants available today, and you can incorporate
elements into your pond design to properly display and grow them. Pond plants are not just
aesthetically pleasing; they also take in nutrients from your pond water and improve water quality.
Hardy pond plants are tolerant of colder weather, whereas tropical plants are only going to survive
in warmer climates. Design your pond with shelves and areas of different depths, so that you can
keep many different types of plants happy. Most plants will have a planting guide that shows the
depth, light, space and climate that they will do best in. If you have a few plants that you know
you want to incorporate into your pond, make sure that your design will allow them to thrive. For
Koi Ponds specifically, some pond builders install a shallow bog area for plants, so Koi are unable
to uproot them.
Layout: Once you have taken all these things into consideration for your garden pond, you
can start to visualize and make a plan. I like to use a garden hose or a length of rope, to work on
the actual shape of the pond. This allows you to easily experiment with a few shapes, and get the
pond to fit in exactly how you want it. You can use spray paint or flags to mark the perimeter so
you only dig out what you need. There are many choices available for pond liners, including preformed hard liners in various shapes for smaller ponds, and flexible liners which allow for creating a pond in any shape or size you desire. Make sure you include your filter placement in this step,
especially if using a skimmer and waterfall type filter.
Choosing a Pump and Filter: The different types of pumps and
filters are covered in detail below.. Deciding what type of filter you need is going to be
determined by the other choices you have made. Pond size, water features, fish, plants, & sunlight
will all play a role in your pond's filtration needs.
Digging a Hole: This is where your dreams meet reality, and where most want-to-be pond
owners have some tough questions to answer. Can I do this myself, or does what I really want
require a professional? Can I dig the hole by hand, or do I need to get some heavy equipment
involved? Do I rent equipment, or pay someone who is experienced with excavation to do the work for
me? This will all depend upon your design and skill level (and what you find in the ground after a
few shovels: a big rock can change the best of plans).
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Pond Liner
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Overview
Your pond liner is what enables your pond to hold water, defines the shape of your pond, and making the best choice for your situation is critical to the success or failure of your pond. ThatFishPlace.com offers a large selection of pond liners and supplies for adding a backyard pond to your landscape. The information below provides an overview of pond liners and applications to help you choose the right type of liner for your installation.
Selecting A Liner
Pond liners are available in different sizes and different materials to fit any pond enthusiast's ambitions. There are three basic types of liners to choose from; pre-formed liners, roll liners and liquid liners. Pre-formed liners come in a variety of shapes and sizes and are very easy to install, however they can limit the creativity of the installation. A second type of pond liner is a flat roll liner, Roll liner can be made of either EPDM (Ethylene propylene diene monomer) rubber, or PVC (Polyvinyl chloride) plastic. Roll liners will conform to any shape pond you may want, simply stretch and fold the liner to fit the shape you have created. These types of liners are sold both in custom sizes, or boxed in pre-cut sizes. Roll liners are available in several different thicknesses, making them appropriate for a wide range of projects. Generally EPDM rubber liners are considered more durable than PVC liners. This is especially important if you're planning on keeping creatures like turtles in your pond which could easily scratch a hole in a thinner liner. PVC liners are lighter and easier to handle, and are an excellent choices for small ponds and patio water features. A third type of pond liner that is available is a liquid pond liner. Liquid pond liners are usually made of Neoprene or EPDM rubber, and are the most difficult of the three to install. In most cases liquid liners are applied over a concrete formed pond, which allows for great flexibility in design, and the most professional looking product. Liquid pond liners are not ideal for cold weather climates due to the damaging effects that freezing and thawing can have on concrete.
There are many similar products available for other industries, primarily roofing, that are NOT fish safe. Roofing materials should never be used in a pond or water garden. Another consideration for pond liners are warranties and guarantees. Quality liners will have a fish safe warranty, as well as sunlight UV protection guarantee.
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Installation Tips
Even the best pond liner can perform poorly if it is not properly installed. There are a few things to keep in mind when installing your pond liner. The most important step to insuring a successful installation is protecting your liner from sharp objects and tree roots. The use of an underliner, or fine sand, will help protect your pond liner from puncture. It is also a good idea not to cut your pond liner until you are completely sure you have it the way you like it, and make sure that you have completely filled your pond before trimming of any excess. Once cut, pond liners are not easy to seam. Here is a simple formula for determining the size pond liner you require:
Length of Liner: (Length of Pond) + (2x maximum depth) + (2 feet for overlap)
Width of Liner: (Width of Pond) + (2x maximum depth) + (2 feet for overlap)
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Pond Filtration – What's Right for Me?
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Choosing filtration for your pond is a big decision you will have to make, and there are many
options. Pond filters can be categorized in to four basic groups, each with their own advantages
and disadvantages. Below you will find information on Submersible Pond Filters, External Gravity
Pond Filters, External Pressurized Pond Filters and Surface Skimmer/Waterfall Pond Filtration
Systems.
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Submersible Filters
Submersible Pond Filters are commonly used on small ponds and water features
and are noted for their ease of installation. These filters are a favorite of people with patio
ponds or barrel ponds. As the name suggests, these types of filters sit on the bottom of the pond
and filter the water internally. Water is drawn through submersible pond filters by a submersible
pump, which can be attached to the filter either internally or externally, and then discharged into
the pond. Pond filtration generally takes place through a replaceable mechanical filter pad and a
permanent biological filter. These filters must be removed from the pond for maintenance and
cleaning, which is why they are not recommended for heavily stocked ponds or ponds with high debris
loads. The water discharge from submersible pond filters can simply re-circulate water into the
pond, or power a fountain or small waterfall. Many submersible pond filters include a fountain kit
with purchase. Some filter models also include an integrated ultraviolet (UV) sterilizer feature,
which further aids in purifying and removing algae from your pond's water. These pond filters can be
used in both flexible liner ponds and pre-form type ponds.
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External Gravity Filters
In external gravity pond filters, water is pumped from the pond or water feature
into the filter, and then flows back into the pond by gravity. These filters must sit above the
water level of the pond and are usually placed at the pond's edge. External gravity pond filters
typically have a reusable/replaceable filter pad for mechanical filtration and permanent biological
filter media. These pond filters are easily maintained and installed, and due to increased capacity
for filter media, are generally more efficient and can handle larger debris loads than submersible
pond filters. Some external gravity pond filters also incorporate ultraviolet (UV) sterilizers for
further pond water clarification and algae removal. Unlike many submersible pond filters, external
gravity pond filters require the purchase of a separate pond pump for operation.
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External Pressurized Filters
External pressurized pond filters allow the greatest flexibility in locating your pond filter. Unlike other pond filters, these filters can be placed further away from your pond
or can even be partially buried to hide them into your landscape. The function of external
pressurized pond filters is wide ranging: from small to very large ponds. Basic pressurized pond
filters consist of a sealed canister that is fed pond water through tubing from a pump. The water is
then forced through a mechanical and biological filter media, then exits the filter and is returned
to the pond. Basic pressurized pond filters need to be disassembled for cleaning and maintenance as
flow decreases due to clogging. More complex styles of pressurized pond filters have backwashing
ability. "Backwashing" is the ability to reverse the internal flow of the water and divert the
outflow of the filter to a separate waste line away from the pond. By backwashing the pond filter,
you can significantly reduce or eliminate the need to disassemble the filter for manual cleaning.
Some external pressurized pond filters also incorporate the use of ultraviolet (UV) sterilizers into
their design to further clarify and eliminate algae from your pond's water. External pressurized
pond filters can be used on both flexible liner and hard pre-form type ponds. A separate pond pump
is required for operation.
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Surface Skimmers and Waterfalls
Surface
skimmers and waterfall pond filters are two part systems designed for use on medium to large
flexible-liner ponds. The first part of this pond filtration system is the skimmer box. The skimmer
box is constructed from rigid plastic or fiberglass and is attached to the pond edge at ground level
outside the pond. A "doorway" is cut in the pond liner and the liner is sealed to a matching opening
in the side of the skimmer box, which typically houses a net or basket to catch floating debris and
a filter pad for mechanical filtration. Surface skimming traps leaves and other surface debris
before it can sink into the pond, keeping the pond much cleaner. A submersible pump inside the
Skimmer box sends water to the second component of these pond filters: the waterfall filter. The
waterfall pond filter is typically located on the opposite side of the pond from the skimmer box.
Water is pumped from the skimmer box to the waterfall filter where it passes through biological
filter media and then returns to the pond, cascading as a waterfall. Another benefit is that all the
components of this system, including the pump, are outside of the pond, allowing easy access to
everything. All of the components are easily concealed with landscaping and rock work, creating a
very natural looking installation. The surface skimmer and waterfall pond filtration method is the
preferred method for larger ponds and is used by many professional pond installers.
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Pond Pumps
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A pond pump is essential to pond maintenance. Most ponds require some sort of pump to power a
filtration system, water feature, or for simple pond water circulation. Many types of pond pumps
exist and each has its own unique features and applications.
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Ratings
There is a wide selection of pond pumps available, but all are rated the same way. The abbreviations
GPH or LPH, meaning gallons per hour or liters per hour, are used to measure the maximum performance
of pond pumps. Another common term used when rating the performance of pond pumps is maximum head
pressure or head height. Head height is the measure of resistance to flow caused by friction and
gravity. Pond pumps will have a maximum head pressure rating, this is an approximation of the
distance in feet (both horizontally and vertically) that a pump can push water though your plumbing.
As head pressure increases, pump performance decreases, knowing the head pressure of your
application is critical to your pump selection. A pumps maximum head pressure rating is the point
at which the pump will no longer function. The effects of gravity on head pressure is very simple;
every vertical foot of distance the pump moves water equals one foot of head pressure (1:1 ratio).
The effects of friction on head pressure is a little more difficult to calculate. Every ten feet of
pipe through which water will travel horizontally contributes 1 foot of head height (10:1 ratio).
Every 90 degree turn in your plumbing will contribute 1 foot of head pressure (1:1 ratio). For
example: if you were to install your pump 30 feet from the top of your waterfall, which was 4 feet
above the pump, with two 90 degree elbows in your plumbing your water feature’s head height would be
9 feet (horizontal distance contributes 3 ft, the vertical height contributes 4 ft, and the 90
degree turns contribute 2 feet). In this example you would want to choose a pump that has the
desired GPH rating at 9 feet of head pressure. Tubing size is also an important factor in
accounting for head pressure loss, in general you should never reduce the diameter of the tubing
below what the output size of the pump is, this will drastically increase head pressure, and reduce
pump performance. For maximum pump performance, using the largest tubing that is practical is the
best choice.
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Types of Pond Pumps
Below are some common pond pump types,
as well as common pond pump descriptions.
Statuary Pond Pumps: By far the most commonly used pond pumps, these submersible magnetic, or
mag drive, pumps use electromagnetism to rotate an impeller and force water out. This method of
forcing water is usually among the most energy efficient systems. Perfectly safe for fish ponds,
these non-oil lubricated pond pumps are available in sizes to fit most ponds. They are ideal for
powering everything from a small pond spitter to a waterfall system. They are easy to maintain and
to service. Statuary pond pumps or magnetic drive pumps are an excellent value in reliability and
energy efficiency.
Direct Drive Pumps: Designed to power water to greater head heights, Direct Drive Pond Pumps
utilize electric motors that physically turn the pumps impeller with a drive shaft. Direct drive
pumps are usually more resistant to head pressure performance loss, but require greater energy
demands. Direct Drive pumps can be external or submersible in design. Some submersible Direct Drive
Sump Pumps are lubricated with oil, making them unacceptable for fish ponds, though many recent
models use a type of lubricant that is completely fish safe.
Submersible Pond Pumps: Submersible Pumps are designed to operate completely submerged in
your pond, and many need the water to keep them from overheating. Many submersible pond
pumps include integrated pre-filters or filtration systems, as well as pond fountain systems.
Submersible pond pumps are very easy to install, however they must be retrieved from the pond to
perform maintenance. The unobtrusiveness of submersible pond pumps allows you to easily conceal
them; and they won't disrupt your outdoor activities with unwanted noise. Some Submersible pumps can
also be used in-line outside of the pond, though this is usually not their ideal
application.
External Pond Pumps: External Pond Pumps, or in-line pumps, are typically installed on large
ponds, and offer maximum performance when high flow rates and head pressure are required, such as
with large waterfalls or Pressurized Filters. External Pond Pumps tend to be more difficult to
install than their submersible counterparts, but generally require less routine maintenance. If your
external pump is not self-priming, extra measures must be taken to protect your pump in the event of
a power outage, with the use of check valves. External pond pumps can be more noisy, which could
disturb outdoor activities. A typical swimming pool filtration system uses an external
pump.
Debris Handing or Solids Handling pumps: This term is applied to submersible pumps which are
specifically engineered to handle large debris loads with little risk of clogging or damaging a
pump's impeller. These pond pump powerhouses can continue to move water through difficult
conditions. Debris handling pumps, also sometimes referred to as waterfall pond pumps are
usually more powerful and more expensive than their counterparts, but are a good value due to the
minimal maintenance required for operation.
Waterfall Pumps: Waterfall Pumps can process high volumes of water loaded with moderate
amounts of solid particles, and are ideal for use with external filtration systems and for creating
streams and waterfalls. Most modern waterfall pumps are energy efficient, and have built in protective
housings that prevent clogging and keep larger damaging debris out of the pump's impeller.
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Algae Control
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Nobody is happy when their pond water turns green, or when masses of thick green algae erupt from
seemingly every surface in your pond. You work so hard to keep your pond clean, clear and looking
good, but even with the best efforts, algae can appear in a flash. Sunlight and high nutrient
levels are the perfect combination for growing algae. Future algae outbreaks can be prevented by
addressing water chemistry issues such as the presence of high phosphates, high nitrates or other
organic nutrients with water changes and chemical filter media. Sunlight can be limited with shade,
surface covering plants, and even water dyes. While these underlying causes should certainly be
addressed to eradicate and prevent future algae outbreaks, they will not be a fast cure for your
algae problems.
To take care of an existing Pond Algae problem you may need to take a more aggressive approach.
There are numerous products for pond algae control (both natural and engineered)
on today's market to help you rid your pond of annoying nuisance algae. When you reach the point
that you are thinking about using an Algaecide, it is important to know how to use them correctly to
ensure that you are using the best product for your situation.
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Getting Started
The first thing to know when applying any treatment is the size (volume) of your pond. Overdosing,
particularly with chemical algaecides, can be lethal to pond animals and plants. Calculate the
volume of your pond with these formulas: Rectangular ponds - Length x Width x Average Depth x 7.5 or
for round ponds - 3.14 x (radius)2 x Average Depth. Make sure that all of your measurements are in
feet. For oddly-shaped or angular ponds calculate using the surface area x the average depth, or
calculate the volume of small areas and add them up. Once you know how much water you have to
treat, you'll be on the way to successful algae control.
Next you'll want to explore the various types of algaecides and algae-fighting treatments available
to find one that will suit your needs. What kind of algae are you fighting? Do you have livestock in
your pond, or do pets and other animals drink from the pond? Do you have ornamental plants in the
pond that may be affected by the treatment you use?
Try Alternatives to Algaecides First
Natural solutions including barley straw products, biological additives and fish safe water dyes may be the
first options to explore. As the lignin in barley straw biodegrades, natural compounds act as
oxidizers to combat algae. This process happens over time as the Barley Straw breaks down. Barley
pellets, extract and other variations work the same way, but faster, as the compounds are more
readily available in these forms. Biological additives boost bacterial that help to digest
muck in the pond, reducing nutrients that feed algae. Water dyes and tints block the sunlight and
prevent algae from forming and taking over. These methods allow for continuous control, simply
replenish the straw as it degrades and the dye as it fades to keep algae in check.
When Taking the Conservative Approach Doesn't Work
For ponds already overwhelmed with algae, free-floating algae blooms or algae on tough to reach or
clean surfaces like rocks and equipment, it is time to turn to an Algaecide to help you get your
Pond Algae problem under control. There are a few different types of Algaecides that are available
for your pond. Algaecides for planted ponds are generally formulated with oxidizing
ingredients that destroy algae on contact or chemical ingredients that break down cell walls of
simple alga. These treatments are typically safe for fish, ornamental plants and other animals in
and near the pond provided instructions are followed. Algaecides for non-planted ponds
often contain copper as the active ingredient which has the potential not only to kill plants, but
is also harmful to snails and other organisms in the pond. If you have an advanced free-floating
algae issue (if your water is green like pea soup) you may consider adding a UV
sterilizer.
Manual removal of as much algae as possible before treatment is highly recommended to allow
algaecides to work more efficiently and to prevent potential dangers for the pond after treatment.
Closely follow the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure proper dosage and to take any precautions
recommended by the manufacturer. Make sure you have adequate aeration and surface agitation to
supply your fish with vital oxygen, especially important during the warmer months. It is best to
treat early in the day when you are able to observe how your animals are responding and take steps
if necessary to add more aeration should they show distress.
Remove as much of the dead algae and debris as possible when treatment is complete, so that it isn't
left to decay in the pond. Once treatment is finished, a partial water change/siphon is also
recommended, with particular attention to the bottom of the pond to remove the debris that may
settle there. Addition of a biological "sludge remover" or bacterial supplements will help to
breakdown the remaining debris to prevent water chemistry issues.
Best Solution for Green Water
The most common algae problem that pond owners confront is green water, caused by free floating
green algae in their pond water. Using a UV Sterilizer or Clarifier is by far the most effective
method for eradicating green water, and maintaining a crystal clear pond. The UV light produced
inside these devices destroys the green water causing algae’s ability to reproduce when it is
exposed, resulting in complete removal. While the initial cost may be more than the cost of an
algaecide treatment, free floating algae will usually reoccur, and a sterilizer can be a permanent
chemical free solution.
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Seasonal Care
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Most folks in the U.S. have some seasonality to weather conditions where they live, obviously more
extreme in the northern states. Depending on how extreme your seasonal conditions are, you will
need to know how to prepare and maintain your pond under these conditions. Here are some things to
consider for your seasonal pond care.
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Spring Pond Maintenance
As spring and warmer weather arrive your pond or water garden becomes an important part of your
daily life again. Although it’s not quite time to add new fish and plants, a small amount of
maintenance will go a long way in maintaining the proper environment for your pond inhabitants. Your
local climate plays a major role in when steps need to be taken, as well as what equipment will be
necessary.
Pond Prep:
Water temperature in the pond is the most crucial factor determining the schedule of maintenance.
You don’t want to disturb your pond too early, if your pond is too cold when you start the process
of “opening” your pond for the season, undue stress may be placed upon your fish potentially causing
diseases. Waiting until after the last frost of the year to begin working on your pond is a good
general rule of thumb. Waiting until the pond temperature is consistently around 50 degrees, your
fish are starting to get active, and springtime has finally warmed things up is the time to get your
pond in shape Since your pond has been dormant for many months, the bacteria colony that was well
established at the end of last year has been reduced and will need to be re-established in the pond
filters. Water will need to be monitored and tested carefully for the first
few weeks after the filters are running. Once the temperature permits, remove
leaves and other forms of debris that may have accumulated during the winter. This also
includes removal of any sludge build up in your pond and filter.
Filter:
In warm climates, or climates in which temperatures do not stay below freezing, you can let your
pond filter run
year round. However for those who live in cooler climates where temperatures can go below freezing,
the pumps, filters and plumbing should have been shut down and drained over the winter. With the
arrival of spring it is time to relocate them along with your ultraviolet sterilizers and prepare
them for operation. It is very important to check to make sure your pump is in good working order,
the pumps impeller is in good condition, no debris or dust has found its way into the mechanics and
filter media is replaced.
Ultraviolet Sterilizers:
One of the best investments for your pond will be a pond ultraviolet sterilizer. A
sterilizer is the most effective way to control green water, and also has the ability to kill
microorganisms. Using a UV Sterilizer will decrease the chances of parasites and unwanted organisms
that may thrive as the pond slowly comes back to life. During the spring, fish are particularly
vulnerable to disease, they are slowly becoming more and more active and their immune systems are
still strengthening after being relatively dormant over the winter months. Also, as the sun is out
more and more each day free floating algae can begin to take over before the pond has established
surface covering plants, or trees have any leaves to provide shade. A U.V. Sterilizer will keep
your pond clear allowing you the best conditions to view your fish.
Fish:
Water temperature also plays a major role in fish keeping; you should always have a pond
thermometer for your pond and track your temperature. As spring arrives and your water
temperature returns to around 50 degrees, use a spring/fall food two to three times per week.
Usually wheat germ based, spring/fall foods are easier to digest, and are
safer to use as the fishes’ metabolism rises. During the summer when water temperatures are above 65
degrees your fishes’ metabolism is in high gear and they have hardy appetites. During this time use
a high protein staple food which will allow fish to gain maximum weight and build up a fat
reserve. Although you may have to add new fish to your pond, it is best to wait until the water
temperature is around 65 degrees.
Plants:
As spring moves into summer and water temperatures continue to rise, move your plants from the deep
section of the pond back to the shelves they were the previous summer. New arrivals will have to
wait until the last frost has passed, after which begin with plants such as water Hyacinth, water Lettuce and Hardy Lilies. Taros, Cannas,
and the remaining tropical plants should only be added at the beginning of summer when the warmest
water temperatures and the longest light period are available.
Here are some products that will help get your pond up and running:
Pond Net: A good sturdy net will help you remove accumulated debris from the winter, as
well as safely catch your fish if needed.
Pond
Vacuum: These can be either pump powered or gravity powered. Use the vacuum to suck out
debris and sludge.
Bottom Drain: By placing a bottom drain in a low point of your pond you can increase the
amount of material that gets trapped in your filter.
Biological Pond Treatments: Special bacteria cultures have been
formulated to maximize your biological filter efficiency, and to break down waste and debris
biologically. Along with the removal of this debris a partial change of approximately 25% is
recommended. This will allow for the addition of well oxygenated water to the pond.
Barley Straw Treatments: Barley treatments offer a natural approach to combating algae,
these products work slowly as they break down, starting barley treatments early in the season will
allow them to be in full effect for warmer weather.
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Pond Winterization
For those who live in northern states, and cooler climates, fall means leaves. Left unchecked,
falling leaves can cause disastrous conditions in your pond or water garden. Leaves and other debris
can clog filters, damage pumps, block spillways and reduce water quality. The best approach is a
good defense; here are the products that will give you the best results:
Pond
Netting: This is probably the easiest and most effective method for preventing leaves from
getting into your pond. Pond Netting is a lightweight, easily installed barrier that shields your
pond from leaves and other light debris. Pond Netting also has the added benefit of predator
protection for your fish and frogs.
Pond
Skimmer: These filters are designed to constantly skim water off the surface of your pond,
trapping any floating leaves or debris, before it can sink and break down. These skimmers work well
year round, used with Pond Netting; they can greatly reduce the amount of debris that makes it into
your pond.
Skimmer Net: This is a
broad sturdy net designed to catch leaves and other light material that may be floating in your
water. Inevitably leaves and other debris will make it into your pond, break down, and result in an
organic sludge build up in your pond and filter. This sludge should also be removed as much as
possible. These products will help with removal.
Pond
Vacuum: These can be either pump powered or gravity powered. Use the vacuum to suck out
debris and sludge.
Bottom
Drain: By placing a bottom drain in a low point of your pond you can increase the amount of
material that gets trapped in your filter.
Biological Pond Treatments: Special bacteria cultures have been
formulated to maximize your biological filter efficiency, and to break down waste and debris
biologically.
Once winter has set in, another serious concern in northern climates is ice. As organic material in
your pond decomposes toxic gases are released. Under normal conditions, these gases escape into the
atmosphere through the water surface. If your pond is allowed to be completely covered in ice these
gases cannot escape and they can concentrate to dangerous levels. Using a Pond Heater will
fix this problem. Floating heaters are designed to keep a small area of the pond surface ice free,
allowing gas exchange with the atmosphere. Floating heaters are not designed to heat the pond
significantly; in cold weather most of the pond will remain frozen.
Filter:
Winterization of your pond filter also depends very much upon the climate in which you live. In warm
climates, or climates in which temperatures do not stay below freezing you can leave your filter
running year round. If you live in a cold climate where temperatures are below freezing, or even if
your climate has the potential to dip below freezing for a several days, shutting down and draining
your filter and plumbing is the safest path to take. Water expands as it freezes, and can damage
your pumps, plumbing and filters if left running or full of water. Damage to plumbing, or ice dams
in spillways can cause rapid draining of your pond, it is not a risk worth taking. Remove your
pumps, Ultraviolet sterilizers, and external filters, drain them, clean them and store them out of
the weather until the threat of freezing weather has passed in spring.
Fish:
Water temperature plays a major role in your fish keeping; you should always have a thermometer
for your pond, and know your temperature. Most of your work on the fish should have been done in the
months leading up to winter. During the summer when water temperatures are above 65 degrees your
fish’s metabolism is in high gear and the fish have a hardy appetite. Use a high protein staple food
during this time. This will allow fish to gain maximum weight and build up a fat reserve. Once fall
arrives and your water temperature falls below 65 degrees, switch to a spring/fall food. Usually a wheat germ based food, spring/fall foods are easier
to digest and are safer to use as the fishes' metabolism slows. Decrease feeding as water
temperatures approach 50 degrees, two to three times per week is fine. At temperatures near 50
degrees it can take several days for fish to digest a full meal, overfeeding at this point can harm
or even kill your fish. Once your water temperature has fallen below 50 degrees for an extended
period of time stop feeding your fish! Your fish’s metabolism has slowed to a point where it is
dangerous to feed them, they can now rely on their built up fat reserves until spring. Do not start
to feed your fish again until your water temperature has stabilized above 50 degrees in
spring.
Plants:
Once fall has set in and frost is on the horizon, you can prepare your pond plants for winter. Hardy
marginal pond plants and lilies should be trimmed back, removing all the old growth and dead leaves.
Place these plants in a deep section of the pond to protect their roots from a hard freeze. Hardy
plants will go dormant and survive the winter outside with few problems. If you have a pond that is
too small, or freezes solid, you can bring all your plants inside. Store them in a container in the
garage or basement where they will stay cool and stay dormant till spring.
Many tropical plants can be brought inside and used as houseplants for the winter. Umbrella palms,
Taros and Cannas will do well in sunny rooms so long as their pots are kept moist. Tropical water
lilies can be kept in small containers if you have a sunroom or an area where they can get at least
6 hours of direct light. Otherwise they can be stored in containers in your basement till spring.
Water lettuce and Hyacinth can also be brought inside; however they require high amounts of light
and temperatures above 70 degrees to do well. In most cases it is easier and cheaper to dispose of
your Lettuce and Hyacinth and replace them in the spring once your pond has warmed up.
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Maintenance
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Much of the routine maintenance required for a garden pond has already been covered. Cleaning or
replacing the filter pads, or backwashing your filter as needed. Keeping streams and waterfalls
clear of debris, which could potentially cause water to flow out of your pond. Trimming dead leaves
or branches from your plants, so that they can’t break down and pollute your pond.
You need to periodically check your water quality, to make sure that chemistry is within acceptable
parameters. Replace any chemical filter media that is being used to control water quality, like
activated carbon or phosphate removers. Here are a couple of lists of items to keep handy, that
will help you install and maintain your pond easily, leaving you more time to relax and
enjoy.
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Pond Maintenance Checklist
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Nets
- Skimmer Net for Floating Debris
- Deeper Net for Sunken Debris
- Soft Net for Fish
Submersible Pump and Tubing
- Water Changes
- Lowering Water Level for Repairs
Algae Removal Tools
- Brushes
- High Pressure Nozzle for Hose
5 Gallon Bucket
- Easily Transport Waste Pulled From Pond
Test Kits
- Check Ponds Basic Chemistry
- Troubleshoot Health or Water Quality Problems
Treatments
- Conditioners for Tap Water
- Bacteria for Boosting Biological Filtration
- Algae Control - Barley Products, Water Shade, Algaecides
- Chemical Media – Activated Carbon, Phosphate Removers, Zeolite
Pond Installation Checklist
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Equipment you will need:
- Liner – Make sure you account for extra liner that will be needed for folds, shelves and
securing the perimeter of your pond.
- Filter - Choose an appropriate sized filter for your pond
- Pump – Make sure that you properly account for the total head pressure affecting your pump, and
make sure that you choose an appropriate size pump.
- Tubing – Choose tubing that is at least as large as the output diameter of the pump you have
chosen, smaller tubing will increase head pressure, and reduce flow.
- Clamps – Make sure that all tubing connections are secure with proper clamps when needed.
Stainless Steel or Plastic Clips should be used outdoors.
- Test Kits – Make sure that your water source is safe for fish and plants, and test your water
as your biological filter matures to keep your fish healthy.
- Nets – Proper nets make maintenance easier, debris, skimmer, and fish nets are available.
Optional Equipment you may want:
- UV Sterilizer – Best option for control of green water
- Plant Baskets - Baskets contain plants, makes moving and maintaining plants easy
- Fountain – Visually interesting feature, helps oxygenate water
- Thermometer – Keep an eye on your water temperature, feed proper food, prepare for seasonal
changes
- Leaf Net – Cover your pond in the fall to keep leaves out, also works well for keeping some
predators away from your pond.
- Heron/Predator Scarer – Don’t let your prized fish become breakfast, keep predators away
- Lighting – Create brilliant night time displays in your pond or garden
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